[-*RhCp*-]

Dudes,

im lacking knowledge at this moment in time.

I've been into surfing for a while now and ive only just started to learn - But can some1 tell me how a reef helps the surf?.

Any help much apperciated

[ivanmcp]

Hi,

here is some usefull info:

Naval Meteorology and Oceanography Command (CNMOC)


"To swimmers and surfers, the ocean is an aquatic playground. However, to witnesses of a destructive tsunami wave, the ocean can also be a source of potential danger to lives and property.
Tsunamis, often erroneously called tidal waves, result when underwater earthquakes and volcanic eruptions disrupt the water's surface. Most other waves are caused by wind driving against water. When a breeze of two knots or less blows over calm water, small ripples form and grow as the wind speed increases until whitecaps, comprised of millions of tiny air bubbles, appear in the breaking waves. Waves may travel thousands of miles before rolling ashore and dissolving as surf.
A wave's size and shape reveals its origins. A steep, choppy wave out at sea is fairly young and was probably formed by a local storm. Slow, steady waves near shore which rear high crests, and plunge into foam come from far away, possibly another hemisphere.

No two waves are identical, but they all share common traits. Every wave, from a tiny ripple to a huge tsunami, has a measurable wave height, the vertical distance from its crest (high point) to its trough (low point). Wind speed, duration, and fetch (the distance it blows over open water) determine how high a wave grows. The maximum height in feet is usually one half or less the wind speed in miles per hour. Wave height decreases gradually as the wind dies and the wave approaches shore. When it touches bottom, it slows, the back overtakes the front, forcing it into a peak, curves forward, and dissolves into a tumbling rush of foam and water called a breaker.
Spilling breakers, a favorite with surfers, are turbulent water with foam cascading down the front. They form on gently sloping or flat shores and roll great distances before breaking.
Plunging breakers form when the bottom rises abruptly (reef) toward the shore. As the crest folds over, it creates a large air pocket, followed by a smooth splash-up. Experienced surfers can sometimes crouch under the falling crest and lock themselves inside the air tube. However, plungers can hurl 135 pound boulders more than 100 feet in the air and can damage buildings 100 - 300 feet above the sea surface.
Waves are fun on a hot summer's day, but they are also a constant reminder of the sea's awe-inspiring power."

[-*RhCp*-]

thanks very much, thats helpful and interesting - thanks

by the way i really liked your story about your journey to hawaii and i loved pictures

[ivanmcp]

Ta, watch out for my final part covering the Hawaii's North Shore.

[-*RhCp*-]

dont worry i will.

Are you travelling there again?

[ivanmcp]

Well, I might go to Hawaii towards New Year's again, but I am also considering some other options. If I do go to Hawaii, I would go to some other island, as I would like to see more than just one. Big Island (Hawaii) sounds good, as it has volcano that has been active for decades now, and is making island grow as we speak .

Other options are Mexico, South Africa, Brasil or Australia. In other words, any place that has worm weather while we are freezing in the UK.

How long have you been surfing?

Ivan

[-*RhCp*-]

sorry i havent replied in ages

You should go to Australia- its my dream to go there

i started body boarding when i was around age of 11 and ive always been into watersports then last year i decided to take up surfing cos i always used to buy the magazines. i havent been surfing long really though, ive had three lessons and i try and get out to beach as much as possible, the only thing is i dont get much practice cos its hard for me to get beach cos i have to rely on other people to get me there but i will learning to drive soon and be able to get as much practice as in as possible