British ocean explorer Captain James Cook sailed through the reefs of Otaheite, Tahiti as it's now known, in 1769. What he his crew saw blew their minds.
In Joseph Banks' account of the voyage he told how the locals dived under waves as they swam out the back with an old canoe, which they then rode in on the swell just for fun - time and time again.
from - >
http://www.thesurfingmuseum.co.uk/history_1899.asp (very good site
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