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questions from a young fool...
the story so far - done lots of body boarding as a kid. Thought id rent a swell board for a few hours...
This was yesterday in Polzeath... (i live up in london however)
First off i was very very surprised at how easy it was to catch waves with it... No problems there...
Then came the pop up... I'd been really cheeky and just stood behind one of the surf school instructors and effectively managed to get myself a free lesson... However i must have caught a good 15-20 waves before even geting close... And my god was i surprised at how damn unstable it was. I do (or used to) a lot of windsurfing, so i didnt think that foot positioning would be much of a problem for me... But it seemed that i was either always too far forward on the board, or to far back as i popped up, the nose would either dig in resulting in me face planting the beach, or the board would rock to the back and id loose the wave. Is this common with swell boards? I had a go on a very kind man's 10ft longboard, and i paddled on it kneeling, then stood up and rode in all the way and it was very stable wherever i put my feet.
Would i have the same problems i was having with the swell board with a normal board? was there something glaringly obvious i was doing wrong?
I dont know where i want to go in terms of long boarding and short boarding, but ive been seriously considering making my first board a mini-mal... is this wise? (im 6ft and weigh about 13.5-14stone)
Thanks,
James
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