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Old 10th June 2007, 23:07
ivanmcp's Avatar
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Life of surf

Life of surf
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'Even when the blue barrels of Pipeline swallowed his son, there were moments when David David forgot the boy was only 9.
David was a proud father then, giddy on the beach at 'Ehukai as Kalani flirted with danger, a child surfing like a grown man.
But the sea can take on monstrous proportions, especially when the surfer is only 4-feet-7. This winter on O'ahu's North Shore, David sometimes watched Kalani with a trace of fear.
"There were a couple of times he just barely made it over the outside sets, and I would flag him to come in," David said. "He would act like he didn't see me."...'
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