Bud Browne: Originator of the surf movie
The Independent

'Now, after Big Wednesday, Point Break and The Endless Summer, the two words "surf" and "movie" slot together as easily as "board" and "wax" or "awe" and "some". But before Bud Browne there were no surf movies. Virtually single-handedly, he invented the genre and celebrated surfing culture on celluloid.
Browne was born near Boston on the East Coast of the United States, but moved to Los Angeles in 1931 to attend the University of Southern California (USC) where he majored in physical education and soon became captain of the swimming team. While Europe was gearing up for war, Browne was learning to surf at Venice Beach.
He got a job as a lifeguard in 1938. When America joined in the Second World War, he served in the US navy, teaching marines to swim, then went back to lifeguarding post-war. He acquired the nickname "Barracuda" and a reputation as one of the world's best body surfers...'